“The newest chapter in local Oaxacan cooking is being written at Moles La Tía, a kind of cenaduria in the Eastside district of Maravilla just past the 710, an intimately lit room with bright paint on the wall, and moody oils of grafitti-spattered Los Angeles River crossings. On weekend mornings, the long, wooden tables are filled with Eastside families stopping by after church for eggs scrambled with diced cactus, chilaquiles, or bowls of brightly spiced menudo, some of the best in town, flavored with a bit of mint…”